Whang Od is probably the most famous tattoo artist in the world, having been featured on the front page of Vogue, as well as having people literally hike for hours to get inked by her. There is a catch though – she was born in 1917, therefore you should probably be quick if you want to get some work done by her.
The good news though is that her village has been quite entrepreneurial and as of now it is much easier to not only get there, but get her famous signature. Here’s my guide on how it was and now is getting a Whang Od Tattoo.
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What the Whang Od?
Whang Od, also known as Maria Oggay, is a traditional Kalinga tattoo artist from the Philippines and quite literally the last of her kind. She practices batok, an ancient form of hand-tapped tattooing that dates back centuries and was traditionally reserved for warriors and headhunters. Back in the day you did not just rock up and pick a design, you had to earn it, usually by killing someone, which gives you some idea of how hardcore this all was.
She became globally famous relatively late in life after being “discovered” by media and tourists, which turned her tiny mountain village into a full-on pilgrimage site. Despite her age, she still works most days, albeit now limited to her famous three-dot signature. She has also trained female relatives to continue the craft, meaning the tradition will live on long after she is gone.
How to get to Buscalan
The village you need to get to is Buscalan, which is way out in the boonies of the Philippines. Technically you can do this in a day (I have done it), but realistically you should break up the journey.
The good news is that there is a bunch of cool shit nearby, with me usually combining it with Sagada and Banaue – hanging coffins and rice terraces respectively.
Manila to Buscalan
Roughly 500 km. Expect 10 to 12 hours total travel time. Typically this involves a bus or car to Bontoc or Tabuk (8 to 10 hours), then another 2 to 3 hours onward. Nearest airport is Manila International, then drive all the way.
Baguio to Buscalan
Around 160 km. Takes about 6 to 8 hours depending on roads and transfers. Baguio is a good jumping-off point and has its own domestic airport, though most still come via Manila.
Sagada to Buscalan
About 75 km. Travel time is 3 to 5 hours. This is one of the easiest and most popular routes, usually via Bontoc. No airport here, just road connections.
Banaue to Buscalan
Roughly 80 km. Takes around 4 to 6 hours. Again via Bontoc or Tabuk depending on route. No airport, all road.
Nearest airports to Whang Od are Tuguegarao and Cauayan, both about 5 to 7 hours away by road, but most people still just do it from Manila or Baguio.
Getting to the village
I got my first Whang Od tattoo back in 2023 and it quite literally required a combined 6 to 8 hour hike. Honestly it was hell on earth, although part of me is now proud that I managed it. I am though pretty much happy that it is now piss easy.
This is for two reasons. One, they have now built a bridge which lowers hike time to 40 minutes (from 6 hours), and secondly there is now a zipline. Now before you get excited, let’s just say said zipline is not exactly FDA approved. This is a car seat on a piece of rope powered by a car engine over a ravine. It was terrifying, but less scary than walking for 6 hours. Never has something cured my fear of heights quicker. New travel time 55 seconds….
Getting the Whang Od Signature
Anyone who says they got a Whang Od tattoo in the last 10 years is probably lying, because these days she does her signature only. Can you really blame her with, you know, her being 109 years old? Said signature is three dots, of which I now have 3. She does this the old-fashioned way and for just 300 PHP, or about $5. By old-fashioned way I mean slamming a piece of bamboo with a hammer.
Does a Whang Od signature hurt? Yes it bloody does, and she can be quite cantankerous, likes to count her money, and has been known to grab guys by the cock. And there is of course no guarantee she will even be there. I though at least have been lucky every time.
Getting a Whang Od Tattoo
When we say getting a Whang Od tattoo, what we mean is the tribal design, but done by one of her relatives, all of whom are from the female side. There’s a bunch of tribal designs that you can go for, with traditionally Whang Od picking it for you. She no longer does this.
The tats all have different meanings, with me personally having a compass, the river sign for life and death, faith, hope and love, as well as a dog. The dog means loyalty!And how much does a Whang Od tattoo cost? Usually from 1000 PHP (link) or about $18, up to much more if you want big ink. This is honestly the deal of the century and she could easily charge a lot more. I personally now have 4 tattoos from her relatives and 3 signatures of hers. One of which is still to heal….
Is it worth getting a Whang Od Tattoo?
Essentially if you have to ask this question then perhaps no, it is not worth it for you. If though you are into tattoos then frankly this is about as close to Mecca as you can get. There is no artist more prestigious than Whang Od and she will not be around forever.
And even though it is much easier than before (I am proud I did the original), it still holds great cachet and those of us who have one will only recognize another.
Guess what? I even have a tour to get a tattoo, as well as offering bespoke trips all year.