When it comes to the modern culinary scene of Pyongyang it is pretty much all about the new districts, the new bars and the international and often expensive flair of the country. There are though still some true old school gems, chief among them being Ul Jibong Restaurant.
Located on the River Taedong and on the opposite side of the infamous Yanggakdo Hotel of our previous fame, the restaurant and in particular its 31st floor are old school DPRK nightlife. This means largely Korean fare, but most importantly a lot of singing and dancing Moranbong Band style.
Click to read about street food in Rason.
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The Food at Ul Jibong
Think of a Korean dish from kimchi to raw beef and fish to deep fried fur quail and they have it here. This is lazy Susan dining with you ordering a bunch of dishes and then sharing it among yourselves. Of note here for me at least were the chips (I am English), the sashimi, as well as the squid.
Drinks are limited to local soju, of course Taedonggang Beer and soft drinks from wherever the country has managed to import from that month. I will deal with the cola selection later. Prices can be considered middling, particularly in comparison to the newer places in Hwasong, but we managed to feed, nourish and look after around 20 people for under $400. You cannot do that in many places around the world.
Entertainment at Ul Jibong
Basically once the food and drinks are in full flow the place goes full disco and the band come out. This usually means four beautiful girls who are all experts at instruments. If you have never seen a North Korean woman belting away at the violin then honestly you have never lived.
This is for the most part done for you until it gets to the time for participation. Then you are dragged up to dance with karaoke following and interactions getting more intense along with the music collection. This is particularly helped if at least some of your party know some Korean songs. Of course our group did. And you know what? It can only be described as magic dancing with a bunch of Koreans to songs dedicated to Kim Jong Il and better still Kim Jong Un.
There might be cooler venues now, but Ul Jibong represents the best of old and new Pyongyang.
Click to see my North Korea Tours with YPT.